Forever in Travel

Galle

Galle is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage site, a huge fort wall built by the Dutch rings the town.  It’s one of those magical, time-trapped places that reminded me at once of Cartagena.  Narrow streets, Victorian lamp posts,  art galleries, cafes and bakeries everywhere, a quaint little place that seems to be trapped in a  perpetual sun-drenched siesta.  It could also have reminded me of York, but there were no moody skies, no cold snap in the air, no tracksuit-clad youths looking for a fight.

We had a coffee and an ice-cream, then went up to the fort walls, the sea crashing over rocks and into wall below.  A fall would hurt – there are no safety barriers here, no meshing to stop the suicidal from jumping, they don’t need warning signs – it’s not Disneyland.  It’s not England, nor Singapore.  If you’re not careful, it’s wet, or perhaps you’re drunk, and you fall, then that’s probably the end.  We walked to the higher rampart, where a couple of enterprising young chaps have set up a wall-jumping enterprise – you pay them to watch them jump into the rocky sea from the top of the wall – and a group of Korean tourists were whooping in delight as one of the local lads dove into a narrow chasm and into the sea, and eventually emerged intact.

 

The iconic Galle Lighthouse stood erect and proud as it has for about 100 years, and as darkness began to fall, the light came on, as it has every night, warning ships of the proximity of land.  Vero and I had a good time wandering around, where each doorway held secrets.  We walked out of the walled city, and to the pier, where a group of young Navy students were playing volleyball.  Vero caused quite a commotion amongst the boys, and they were more than happy to pose for a photo with her, all huge smiles.  One of them bravely offered a ‘Que tal?’  We headed to the end of the pier, where old Muslim fishermen stood gazing at their lines.  The sky was being painted with shades of pink, sunset yellows, and orange…..the day was almost over.  We sat with the fishermen for a while.  It was peaceful.  Lovely.

Wandering back inside the walled town, we ducked inside Indian Hut for a drink as the heavens had opened.  When all had subsided,  we headed to Mama’s Restaurant and to their rooftop terrace to enjoy a delicious curry (for me) and a tuna steak (for Vero) overlooking the lighthouse and it’s revoloving light, as the Muezzin issued the call to prayer from the mosque opposite, creating a hauntingly beautiful scene in this predominantly Muslim town.  The Old Dutch Hospital was next, which has been converted into a string of upmarket restaurants and cafes.  We had a drink at the imaginatively-named ‘One Minute by Tuk-Tuk’ in a great spot right over the sea.  Then it was back to Unawatuna by tuk-tuk for Rs400.  We stopped by the Blue Crab cafe for an arak cocktail, then to a deserted beach bar for a shisha session under the stars, not quite as romantic as it could have been with the pounding electronic music coming from the beach bar next door, which also had no customers.   At midnight, we walked back to the hotel.  It was silent.  It was also time to move on.  Mirissa was next.

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