There is something special about the light in Lisbon. Sitting outside one of the many street-side cafes nibbling on a pastel de nata washed down with a meio de leite, you notice it flooding the grand, wide avenues, bathing the beautiful plazas, bringing the pastel colours of the 18th century buildings to life, reflecting off the fountains and the river Tagus beyond, bouncing off the renaissance churches, warming the mosaics of the calçadas, and dancing with the colours of azulejos that adorn building facades. That same light gently blesses each of the 7 hills (São Jorge, São Roque, São Vicente, Santo Andre, Santa Catarina, Chagas, Sant’Ana) that Lisbon is famous for, and the miradouros that reward you for the climbs. The City of Light, the sunniest capital city in Europe with more than 300 sunny days a year, really does seem brighter than other cities (perhaps explaining why sunglasses seem to be a permanent fixture of a Lisbonite’s wardrobe), and it never disappoints. It looks and feels grand, as a capital city should, yet it is pleasantly compact. Guidebooks will tell you to catch the number 28 tram, as it trundles past pretty much all the noteworthy tourist sites, but it’s packed beyond comfort, and it’s much more interesting to walk. In fact, few cities can beat Lisbon for wandering and getting lost. You don’t need a map here –just wander the wide avenues of Avenida da Liberdade, the cobbled streets of Barrio Alto, along the river, through the winding warren of Alfama, up the hill to the castle of Sao Jorge and to beautiful miradouras ….it really is a city that rewards unplanned adventure, and when you get tired of traipsing up and down you are never too far from a little café to stop and enjoy a bolo de arroz or a pastel de nata and a pingo.
It can be a little overwhelming arriving in Lisbon. Where do you stay to get the most out of it if here for a weekend? We say stay right in the centre of all the fun! Though we’ve stayed in hotels dotted around Avenida Da Liberdade (also a wonderful area to base yourself – though it can be a longish walk into town), and further away, the last time we went we stayed in the trendy boutique International Design Hotel – one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group.
This hotel is on the south side of the magnificent Rossio square. Rua Augusta, Lisbon’s main pedestrian street, is literally on the doorstep. This is a fine base for exploring.
Walking Lisbon
When we walk we walk anywhere and everywhere! However, having been to Lisbon many times, we do now have a favourite ‘route.’ We recommend starting at the top of Parque Eduardo VII, which offers magnificent views of the city and gives you a taster of the wonderful things to come.
Head down to the huge roundabout with the statue of Marques De Pombal, then on down the posh shopping street of Avenida Da Liberdade (stopping at the not quite so posh kiosk Hotdog Lovers on the way for a snack to keep you going). Keep heading downhill, stopping at the various plazas and branching off occasionally down a side-street. Pause for a coffee now – we’re about to head up to the hills!
Then you need to find an elevator somewhere to take you up to the Sao Jorge neighbourhood, from where you can walk up to the Moorish Sao Jorge castle. The views from the castle, and the castle itself, are well worth the traipse up the steep hill. There’s an even better view, however, at the Miradour Da Graca – a viewpoint with lots of trees to provide shade. Even higher is the Miradouro Da Nossa Senhora Do Monte, with striking views of the castle and a privileged view over pretty much the entire city. From here we work our way back down, stopping at the incredible 17th century Church of Santa Engracia (now the National Pantheon) for more beautiful views from various viewpoints around the building.
From here, you can get lost in the Alfama district, a dilapidated area full of gritty charm, colourful yet worn buildings, and the sound of fado wailing from the ancient walls (there are often fado performances in the evenings – and there’s a Fado museum here too).
Pop into a tiny hole in the wall bar and have a ginginha (cherry liqueur) to perk you up, then continue on to the wonderful 12th century Se Cathedral.
Now you’re back on level ground, and you can wander down the pedestrianized Rua Augusta, which takes you down to the massive Praca do Comercio, the grandest of Lisbon’s squares, and the biggest square in Europe.
A statue of King Jose I on horseback is in the centre, and on three sides are restaurants. The south side is the river Tagus, and from there you can get a ferry to the other side of the river. It is also a good spot to relax and people watch – at sunset you’ll often see African or Brazilian musicians lifting the good mood even higher. You can also see the weird rock art here – painted stones from the river piled gravity-defyingly high. We then enjoy walking along the river to Cais do Sodre, where we might enjoy a drink at the unique Vestigius wine and gin bar.
A walk from here can take you up to the Chiado district, an elegant neighbourhood full of good restaurants and shops.
If it’s late, you might want to head to Barrio Alto, a maze of narrow streets and hole in the wall bars, some tasteless and tacky, others with a bit more class, with great live music to be found – just be aware that there are drug dealers on every corner, and they can be quite persistent (and annoying!”) with their hissed promises of “free sample”(even to the point of knocking on the window of restaurants to show you their wares)! Try to be polite and firm in your refusal – the gangs they operate in span the city and they are in constant contact – they normally respond well to eye contact and a cheerful ‘no thanks’, not so well to being ignored or rudely responded to. The police know it happens (I have even witnessed deals being made right in front of them!), but tolerate it (for better or worse), Lisbon having a pretty relaxed attitude to drugs. It’s something that can be surprising if you’re visiting from more conservative places – so just be prepared!
An alternative to Barrio Alto would be the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This is beautiful day and night, there are often musicians, and there are plenty of benches around the pretty gardens to sit down on and take in the view. A walk back down to Avenida Da Liberdade is steep, but better than the overpriced ‘Elevador Gloria’ funicular that runs down to Restauradores Square. We now head to our favourite Starbucks in the world – at Rossio station for a much needed café latte and a sugary donut – nothing compared to a rocket-fuel pingo and a bola de arroz, but you don’t want to spin out too early – there’s more to explore.
Belem
A second day in Lisbon might involve hopping on the tram to Belem. Leaving the city the scene of the beautiful architecture of central Lisbon quickly becomes one of soulless concrete housing blocks, with every wall emblazoned with graffiti. The outskirts of Lisbon are poor and rough, and a marked contrast to the display of (albeit old) wealth and elegance in the well-preserved city. Famous football team names like Benfica are in fact characterless urban areas that appear at first glance unwelcoming and unsafe – not places tourists would find interesting enough to linger in. Arriving in Belem located right on the Tagus river, you notice a change towards the affluent (continue a bit further to the coastal resort of Cascais and the affluent can become opulent in places). Belem was once a major maritime port, and is full of architectural and historical sights. No visit to Belem is complete without a visit to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, or to the impressive 16th century Torre de Belem. A stroll along the waterfront is a must, and we have often enjoyed watching the sailing boats drifting underneath the impressive 25 de Abril bridge. And of course, no day here is complete without trying a tasty pastel de nata at the famous Pasteis de Belem – the recipe hasn’t changed since 1837.
A train or tram back can drop you off at Cais Do Sodre, where many a wild night has begun. There are Irish bars, English bars, and a whole host of hip and happening local’s places. It’s still sleazy (it was once the red light district of Lisbon – some would argue it still is), there are possibly more drug dealers than regular punters, but it is definitely going through a makeover. A hip ‘gentrification’ of sorts. There’s also the amazing Time Out market nearby for something either local or more exotic – they do great Thai food here if you’re bored of bacalhau! Then of course, hit one of Lisbon’s many cool clubs to dance the night away with the fun-loving Lisbonites.
Lisbon is cultural, classy, and charming. We love Lisbon, and are sure you will too – the people, the colours, the food, drink, the narrow cobbled streets, the wide avenues, the trundling trams, and the light, that beautiful, bright light. Don’t forget your sunglasses.
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